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The village at the end of the road
The narrow road rose and fell with the craggy landscape as we climbed, and then disappeared over, the mountains. It’s said to be one of the most beautiful roads in Scotland; a claim we could appreciate...
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Welcomed into Arnhem Land
It was late September, just a few weeks before the end of Gurrang, one of Arnhem Land’s six seasons. Smoke rose from the floodplains where the local women hunt long-necked turtles. The fire stripped...
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Haunted by the past in Srebrenica
More than two decades since the massacre at Srebrenica, the death toll is still rising. The plaque at the memorial at Potočari reads 8372 – the number of people killed or missing since the 1995...
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Exploring Balat and Fener: ‘There’s nowhere in Istanbul like this’
The cafe was like so many we’d seen in Istanbul. The chairs and tables were basic and slightly rusted. The tea hot and strong. The clean-shaven, neatly dressed owner joined the old men at the next...
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A desert phenomenon: Lake Eyre from above
It’s the biggest lake in Australia and one of the largest in the world. It sits in the middle of the desert, yet can be as salty as the sea. It’s visible from space and has filled just four times in...
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A very big guide for planning a trip to Cradle Mountain
If you’re planning a trip to Tasmania, chances are Cradle Mountain is on your radar. And it should be. It’s one of the most extraordinary parts of the state and Australia. The distinctive mountain...
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Against the odds: Turtle spectacles on Lady Elliot Island
When a sea turtle is laying her eggs she will go into a trance-like state, somewhat oblivious to what’s going on around her. It’s at this point, the ranger told us, it is safe to approach and hopefully...
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The coppersmiths of Sarajevo
Ping, ping, ping. The copper makes a piercing sound as the hammer and nail punch into the metal. Ping, ping, ping. Kenan Hidić, a third-generation coppersmith, is at work in his family’s shop in...
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If Pristina’s buildings could talk
Looking at the Brutalist jumble of cubes and domes that is the National Library of Kosovo I have two questions: What were they thinking? And what does it look like inside? The building, almost entirely...
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Lake Eyre in flood: A desert phenomenon comes to life
The scorched, red earth around William Creek bears the scars of drought. The wind has eroded the soil. The stations have cut their herd numbers. The big dry is punishing. But due east, there is water....
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