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Lake Eyre in flood: A desert phenomenon comes to life
The scorched, red earth around William Creek bears the scars of drought. The wind has eroded the soil. The stations have cut their herd numbers. The big dry is punishing. But due east, there is water....
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If Pristina’s buildings could talk
Looking at the Brutalist jumble of cubes and domes that is the National Library of Kosovo I have two questions: What were they thinking? And what does it look like inside? The building, almost entirely...
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The coppersmiths of Sarajevo
Ping, ping, ping. The copper makes a piercing sound as the hammer and nail punch into the metal. Ping, ping, ping. Kenan Hidić, a third-generation coppersmith, is at work in his family’s shop in...
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Against the odds: Turtle spectacles on Lady Elliot Island
When a sea turtle is laying her eggs she will go into a trance-like state, somewhat oblivious to what’s going on around her. It’s at this point, the ranger told us, it is safe to approach and hopefully...
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A very big guide for planning a trip to Cradle Mountain
If you’re planning a trip to Tasmania, chances are Cradle Mountain is on your radar. And it should be. It’s one of the most extraordinary parts of the state and Australia. The distinctive mountain...
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A desert phenomenon: Lake Eyre from above
It’s the biggest lake in Australia and one of the largest in the world. It sits in the middle of the desert, yet can be as salty as the sea. It’s visible from space and has filled just four times in...
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Exploring Balat and Fener: ‘There’s nowhere in Istanbul like this’
The cafe was like so many we’d seen in Istanbul. The chairs and tables were basic and slightly rusted. The tea hot and strong. The clean-shaven, neatly dressed owner joined the old men at the next...
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Haunted by the past in Srebrenica
More than two decades since the massacre at Srebrenica, the death toll is still rising. The plaque at the memorial at Potočari reads 8372 – the number of people killed or missing since the 1995...
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Welcomed into Arnhem Land
It was late September, just a few weeks before the end of Gurrang, one of Arnhem Land’s six seasons. Smoke rose from the floodplains where the local women hunt long-necked turtles. The fire stripped...
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The village at the end of the road
The narrow road rose and fell with the craggy landscape as we climbed, and then disappeared over, the mountains. It’s said to be one of the most beautiful roads in Scotland; a claim we could appreciate...
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The Red Highway
We saw the truck coming and put up all the windows. As it drove past we came to a stop, blinded by the dust swirling over the road. The wind slowly pushed the haze to the east, revealing the dirt...
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Self-drive adventure: Cairns to Cape York
The road is dry, dusty and often, rough as guts, but driving the Cape York Peninsula is one hell of a road trip. It’s about 1000km from Cairns to Cape York, which isn’t a big distance when we’re...
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The hidden courtyards
From the outside, New Parliament House is an intimidating symbol of strength and power. The Italian marble facade and manicured lawns give little away about what lies within. It’s not quite the most...
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Flirting with Orkney
Should we or shouldn’t we? A decision that seemed easy, had become agonising. Nothing was in our favour. Not the weather, time or money. It would cost £140 ($250) for a return trip on the ferry. We’d...
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Sympathy for the devil
Mortimer spends his days in an enclosure all to himself, tucked away from the high-traffic areas where the juvenile devils and some joeys delight tourists. At the ripe old age of six, he’s earned a pen...
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Where to find a scrumptious breakfast in Melbourne
Melbourne might be all about the coffee, but in case you need a little more sustenance, here’s some suggestions of where to get the most important meal of the day. Seven Seeds It’s official. I’ve found...
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My favourite places to eat in Melbourne
I don’t write a lot of posts like this, but after several indulgent trips to Melbourne in the last year or so, I decided it was time I shared my dining discoveries. Finding good food in Melbourne is...
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Quick guide to the North Coast 500
The US has Route 66. Australia, the Great Ocean Road. The Ring Road will take you around Iceland, and The Garden Route up the coast of South Africa. But what about in Scotland? Here, my friends, lies...
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The street I shouldn’t tell you about
There is a fine line between a place existing peacefully off the beaten path, and finding itself slap-bang on the tourist trail. It’s a line on which Rue Crémieux is wavering. The small street in...
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Your guide to an amazing adventure in Tasmania
For a small state, Tasmania packs a lot in. Think you can tackle it in a long weekend? Think again. To give you an idea of what you’re in for, I’ve compiled a list of 100 things to do in Tasmania. This...
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